Tuesday, February 22, 2011
Getting ready for driveway concrete and ground floor beams
The garage and back of driveway is ready for the concrete slab. Rebars will go in after the piping are put in. The raised beams for the ground floor is now being built and the raised slabs for the laundry and kitchen are also going up. Note that the ground floor is raised 3 feet. The Air Bricks have been handed to the contractor. He will measure a box that will be sent into the beam so that the Air Brick can be placed in the gap when the beam is completed. Note the workers. They are mostly Indonesian (some from Sulawesi!) and they work hard ! Even after 6pm and on Saturdays as well. It is a good idea whenever you visit the site, to bring some refreshment or lunch for the workers. They are poorly paid and will appreciate treats.
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Mr. Chin,
ReplyDeleteGood day mate.
I really enjoy reading your blog not becoz I'm an Engineer/ Builder but I understand your passion about building your own house. I myself also over the years have sometimes developed feeling over the building I built....and I spend , well huge part of my $$$ in renovating my own "home".
May I know your 400k for the 3,000 sq ft, is the 3,000ft total, 1st + 2nd floor.
Anyway, some free advice that I can shared with you:
Is your car-porch floor suspended? I think it's best to have all your floors suspended for your area in which your house located.
Apron.....this is the most difficult part in which for years I have tried to prevent cracks between the apron and the wall connects...BUT I do hope your contractor can solved this. Installing re-bars from perimeter beams is only good for short span apron slab <600mm.
Be sure to have your pile staggered instead of "layed" as per most drawing stated. However, the best solution is not using concrete drain (HRPC) instead...use 6" PVC pipe for drainage...they are lighter and cracks are minimal in which connection is minimize.
Alarm is one of the best investment...don't save on that...have the wire installed before plastering.A metal main/rear doors is a good protection too if you don't like grilles.
Insist on using the local River sand which have bigger particle size to prevent micro-cracks which come later, after 3-4 month...( SIBU/MIRI SEA sand is cheap .... producing a smoother plastering ( due to smaller particle size) but I never used this as later on the consequence is nothing but nightmare for me as a builder and the house owner. You can achieve smoother surface than the SEA sand by applying a SKIM coat after plastering, one of the brand I use is Top last coat which is retailing at around 20/ bag of 20kg. For your home, I think 20 bag is more or less enough (estimate only )
Remember to place a plastic between the hardcore (6/8" crusher run) and concrete slab ( ie placing a plastic sheets before concrete slab pouring ). This is to prevent moisture travels thru the slab, increasing the dampness in living area, especially when you use a lot of timber as finishing, and I believe, furniture too.
Is your slab hardcore being compacted using a Rammer or Vibration plate. Consult your engineer friends.
Mr. Sub, IMHO , subsurface structure is more important then any super surface finishing in which finishing can be replaced later but the foundation and slab cannot.
Have to go.
Keep up your good work/ blog and good luck in your house!!
I think that all for now. Hope the info above helps.
It does ! The 400k is for 3,000 sq ft walled up gf and 1f. ALso includes external work areas deck, fencing, garage and driveway
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