More Family Pics

These are more recent family pics

Sun Screens

This is not really a new idea but it seems to have gained more popularity recently what with "green" concerns.  The main problem with nice glass windows is that they let the sun directly into the house and it can get pretty hot.  So what people do is either put in thick curtains, close windows and put on the aircon.  Thats why you go around and see most houses with the upstairs windows closed.  It all seems rather self defeating in a way and I am sure the electricity bills are high.  In addition I dont like constant air con as I feel suffocated by the poor air quality (low in oxygen and high in dust) and also the dryness.

Recent years has seen an upsurge of usage of aluminum sun screens in form of louvered screens shielding walls and windows.  It is effective as it absorbs the direct sun rays and also allows a view from the window (downwards).  In addition, it also allows siting of the air con condenser units.  Many times I have seen well designed houses ruined by that metal block mounted on the wall.  However I dont like aluminum screens and have opted for wooden screens.  Below is a design.  The screen will be hung from the rafters/truss of the roof.  It should have a gap between the wall sufficient for full opening of a window as well as access to installation of an air con condenser unit.

Note from the diagram the effectiveness of the screen from the shadows behind it.

I have included an Illustrator designed screen for those who are interested in more details.  I have put in a horizontal gap of about 2 inch but really its not scientifically designed and I am sure readers can come up with a better design.  The main objectives would be balancing the shielding from the sun and at the same time allowing the house occupants to look outside.  I estimate a 2 inch gap allows horizontal views and a larger downward view.

Problem #1

The Land and Survey Dept apparently makes a comment on the house design before the Local Authority processes the submission of the house plans.  And on the 17th Dec, they said the current plans had to be rejected as it includes an liveable attic (in other words considered a 3 storey house).  The authority for approving this attic resides with the dreaded SPA (State Planning Authority).  Needless to say, it would be a foolhardy step to seek approval from the SPA.  They make take months to approve.  Subdivisions approval by the SPA has been known to take years.  So we have to change the plans to remove the staircase access to the attic.  Although I had an eye to use the attic, it would have been mainly for storage rather than liveability so thats ok.

House Plans submitted !

On 15th Dec, the house plans were submitted to the Local Authority for approval.  The clock starts ticking.
Below is the elevation view of the plans that were submitted. It would help if you use a microscope.  The right side has been cropped.  Click the image for a full view of the entire plan.

Final Design (Almost)

This series of drawings show an advanced stage design of our house.  There is some tinkering needed.  However essentially the basic architecture is there.

You will note the implementation of previously design features such as the back garage with space for reverse and going out the main gate in forward mode.  However the concept of the roof on all sides were not incorporated.

A new feature is the addition of wooden louvered screens in front of windows to shield the windows and also hide the ugly air cons.  I will post my design of these shields later.

My wife commented that the design a bit too contemporary and so some attention is needed to tinker with the over all look.

Front left elevation

Ground floor layout has a study (cum geriatric room) as originally planned.  Note the kitchen overlooking the deck and front of house

1st floor layout. Note the guestroom next to the master does not have an ensuite bathroom. It was not possible as we did not want any draining pipes (and leaks) into the kitchen below.  No lah - no feng shui, just practical issues.  There is a generous family room for days when I travel and then the family can retreat upstairs.  All bedrooms can accommodate 2 beds.

Roofing

One of the earlier design principles was that the walls should be protected from the sun as much as possible through generous eaves.  This is possible through 2 steps

1. A steep pitch of roof allowing a deeper drop of the eaves
2. The roof covering ALL sides of the house.  There are quite a few houses where 2 sides are exposed to the sun. 

The 1st pic (Sketchup) shows a conventional roof in many houses.   The shadows shows much of the ground floor wall exposed.

The 2nd pic shows the improved design (now more common) with a roof covering on all 4 sides.  You can see now that part of the side of the ground floor is sheltered.


Another important design requirement was ventilation.  This meant the addition of gables and/or dormers on the roof with louvered windows for constant circulation of air.

Hence the best roof design (from my perspective) is in the 3rd pic (without a dormer-too much a hassle to draw lah).

The little window allows for constant ventilation.  A ventilator fan is even better.  Look at this product - Solar Powered Gable Mounted Attic Fan

Finally there remains to determine the material for the roof.  It appears that there are no totally satisfactory solution.  Tiles will eventually deteriorate and it has been found to be leaky as well.  Spandek (zincalume) metal roofing is ok until the rubber ring around the nails deteriorate and water leaks in.  In addition it requires more insulation due to transfer of heat.  In the end we decided on Kliplok where no puncture of the roof is required and hence waterproofing is better.  They have a patented system of clipping the roofing under the overlapping roof sheets without puncturing the metal.  It was emphasised on us that metal truss would be required to minimise warping of the roofing (and leaking).  I am not sure why.

Flooring

A big decision is the floor of the house.  Our current house floor is wooden and it has served us very well.  It is much softer on the feet. We know, after a few hours in the tiled kitchen, compared to the other parts of the house.  The kids grew up on it, falling on it, knocking their heads on it without serious damage.  The colour of the house is warmer and people like to lounge around on wood rather than on cold tiles.

However there was a price on that.  I used ordinary wood and hence it was vulnerable to dry rot (or those little termites).  Eventually I will have to consider replacing the floorboards.  This was the main concern of my wife.

Hence for the new house, we have to decide whether it should be concrete floor (with tiles) or wooden floorboards.  If wooden, what wood would it be?

In terms of price comparison, here are some numbers.  It is estimated that it would cost RM 60 per sq ft for re-inforced concrete floor.  Hmmm I have just been told thats probably the cost of the house structure included (beams, pillars).  Jon says its more like RM 25 per sq ft for the floor.  The tiles would probably be about RM 4 per sq ft, not counting installation cost.  Selangan Batu is about RM 10 per sq ft (Grade A tongue and groove) but with joists, sanding, installation etc, it may go up to RM 20 per sq ft.  Kempas, very attractive (grain and colour pattern) but not as hardy is about RM 14 per sq ft just for the surface wood.

In any case, Selangan Batu would be the best choice.  It is resistant to insect attack provided it is kept away from open sun and rain.  It is cheaper than tile and concrete and friendlier.  Kempas is attractive but it is expensive and comes only in 3 foot lengths.  In addition it is not hardy.  The only problem is taht it is difficult to find good quality Selangan Batu.  Either they have the common problem of pin holes in the wood or they are not old enough.

With wooden floors, however, you need to consider what to do with sealing the ceiling of the ground floor as the noise from the first floor would be transferred down.  One option is using plaster.  However a new option is using a light colour softwood called Agapis (?) which looks like pine.

Even with a wooden ceiling, it still looks cheaper that concrete and tile ! Selangan Batu it will be.